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| Straw poll: Rust protection http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=5339 |
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| Author: | Mattia Valente [ Mon Feb 27, 2006 4:57 am ] |
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Right, a question at this juncture: as my collection of knives/planes/chisels/etc. increases, the question arises: what do you folks use for rust protection, and what kind of 'schedule' do you follow? Right now, I'm using a bit of camelia oil (Japanese natural oil), wiping on a bit once in a while, since it supposedly doesn't mark wood, etc. I was wondering what everyone else was using; I want these tools to last me a lifetime, after all, and stainless steel's not a viable option for a lot of tools... |
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| Author: | PaddyD [ Mon Feb 27, 2006 4:59 am ] |
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camelia oils is good, or there is this stuff called dri-cote |
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| Author: | Frank Ford [ Mon Feb 27, 2006 7:00 am ] |
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A small block of camphor in the tool box or drawer is a classic oldtimer's rust preventive. It smells great - like celluloid, of course. Camphor can be a bit hard to find, but that's why we have Google. . . |
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| Author: | ecklesweb [ Mon Feb 27, 2006 7:06 am ] |
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I have a block of clear candle wax that I use to wax the soles of my planes. I also use it to wax the blades of my chisels and hand saws to help keep the rust away. I wax the soles every time I use them, usually several times if I'm doing something like face jointing. The chisels I do after I sharpen them, just because that's a time I think about doing it. The saws I do about every other time I use one, usually because I don't think about it every time I use them. My table saw is a little cast-aluminum Ryobi BT3100, so that's not a problem, and my drill press has a MDF table bolted on top of the iron table, so I never see that surface. |
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| Author: | Arnt Rian [ Mon Feb 27, 2006 8:13 am ] |
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I don't do anything to prevent my shop tools from rust, but they don't rust. I don't understand how rust can be a problem in a humidity controlled room, provided they are kept away from water, wiped well after using the water stones and so on...? |
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| Author: | Pwoolson [ Mon Feb 27, 2006 8:24 am ] |
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When I moved from Phx, the movers had some sort of leak in their truck. It got a box wet that was sitting on my tablesaw. So the table of my saw was nothing but rust. I've heard that once rust is introduced to metal, it can't be totally removed without actually cutting that part of the metal out. I do know that I never had rust on that bed before and now if a drop of titebond falls on it, it will rust before the glue dries. I use cubina(sp) was on all of my beds. Prevents rust and makes them very slick for sliding wood across. |
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| Author: | Alain Desforges [ Mon Feb 27, 2006 8:35 am ] |
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Lee Valley has a few good products. They have Boeshield. Alledgedly lasts for months. http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=50252&cat=1,43 415,43440 And I've tried this one: http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=40951&cat=1,43 415,43440&ap=1 I like the Dri-Coat. It doesn't stain wood. Don't know about sending those over the pond, though? |
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| Author: | Mattia Valente [ Mon Feb 27, 2006 6:44 pm ] |
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[QUOTE=Arnt] I don't do anything to prevent my shop tools from rust, but they don't rust. I don't understand how rust can be a problem in a humidity controlled room, provided they are kept away from water, wiped well after using the water stones and so on...?[/QUOTE] My humidity control is fairly tight, but due to circumstances not as tight as I'd like it to be. When I'm actually building anything, I watch it like a hawk, and adjust accordingly, but some of my tools are displaying minute amounts of rust (we're talking a few specks after well over a year), particularly two sawblades I left in open plastic sheaths without oiling them lightly first. I think I'll go look for some camphor, though; I was planning on making a nice toolbox to organize the stuff I've got, as it's getting a bit cluttered now! |
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| Author: | SimonF [ Mon Feb 27, 2006 7:03 pm ] |
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Bosehield T-9 is without a doubt the best rust prevention for cast iron on the market. Not only is it supposedly harmless to wood finishes, it is a great lubricant as well. I have been using it for a couple of years and recommend it completely. I also recommend Grizzly's citrus degreaser for cleaning bits and tool tabletops before you apply the Boeshield - this stuff is phenomenal. http://www.grizzly.com/products/G7895 I live in Florida and don't have a humidity controlled shop. I treat my tools with this stuff every couple months and have absolutely no rust on any of my equipment. |
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| Author: | Cocephus [ Mon Feb 27, 2006 7:16 pm ] |
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Mattia, when I was rebuilding car engines with my dad many years ago, we learned about not leaving anything wrapped or covered in plastic because moisture will condense on it and the metal, and guess what? Rust! Hope this helps a little. Coe |
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| Author: | Chas Freeborn [ Tue Feb 28, 2006 12:07 pm ] |
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I'll second (or third) the Boeshield reccomendation. I use it on my rowing shell's metal parts (we're talking saltwater exposure) and it keeps everything shiny. For oft used tools the Camelia oil is fine, plus it smells good... -C |
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